Be sure to read this. Michael Totten is a journalist, but unlike most any other reporter out there. He used donations from readers of his website to pay for his trip to Iraq. He's not beholden to any editors, he can go where he wants and cover the stories he wants to cover, and thus is far more interesting and revealing than what you get from the New York Times. He's left Iraq, and this is the story of his trip to Israel after leaving Iraq.